Montenegro Itinerary: A Family Road Trip, Day by Day

Who we are, and why Montenegro

Nine people, three generations, two rental cars. Grandparents in their sixties, three young couples between twenty-five and thirty-one, and one small toddler we dragged along everywhere. We picked Montenegro because we wanted mountains and sea in the same trip, without flying far and without breaking the bank. After the days we spent there, I can already say it was a good call.

This post is a day-by-day itinerary. What we did, what it cost, and what I'd do differently. Let's start from the beginning.

Day 1: Landing in Tivat, Porto Montenegro, and a night in Dobrota

We landed in Tivat at two in the afternoon. We grabbed the cars and, almost without overplanning it, drove straight to wander around Porto Montenegro.

The marina is lovely. Plenty of yachts, people strolling at an easy pace, and a calm atmosphere that's hard not to fall for. We had lunch at a restaurant called One, right on the water. Good food, a pleasant table, and the weather played along. A perfect start.

Toward evening we carried on to our hotel, Maison W in Dobrota, and arrived after dark. There isn't really a proper lobby, but the rooms are genuinely big and spacious, and there's easy parking right by the place. For a first night after a flight, exactly what you need.

Day 2: A boat ride to Perast, the Kotor cable car, and Ostrog Monastery

We got up and went for breakfast at Platani, a restaurant right next to the hotel. After that we lost a bit of time to some personal errands within the family, so we set off later than planned. No big deal.

A speedboat ride to Perast

We headed down to a cruise that leaves right by the restaurant. A speedboat, an hour and a half, with a twenty-minute stop in Perast. The price: about twenty euros per person. The experience was wild. The boat flies across the water, the views open up in every direction, and it's hard to take in all the beauty with your eyes, let alone a camera. Perast itself is a tiny stone town, and twenty minutes was enough to get a feel for it and take some photos. For the toddler the speed was a little scary at times, but in the end she enjoyed it too.

The Kotor cable car

After the boat we collected our gear and drove to the Kotor cable car. There's organized paid parking, and a ticket costs twenty-three euros per person. The ride alone is worth the money. You climb a huge amount in just a few minutes, and the bay opens up beneath you in a way that's hard to describe. It's cooler up top, and there are a few attractions.

We continued by shuttle, about ten euros per person, to the Njegoš Mausoleum. A ten-minute drive to the entrance. There we paid another eight euros each and climbed the 461 steps to the top. Yes, we counted. The view from the summit is exceptional, the kind that stays with you long after you've come down. You can also reach it by car, but our boat driver told us the narrow roads sometimes jam up badly and are hard to get out of, so we skipped that. Turned out skipping it was the right move.

We came back from the mausoleum and ate at the upper cable-car station, at a place called Forza. Tachles, touristy and not really worth it. Some of the group actually did the alpine coaster up there and raved about it. If you're there, put your money into that instead of the meal.

A night near Ostrog

Toward sunset we rode the cable car back down, and the descent is an experience of its own. From there we drove to our next hotel. We chose to sleep at Sokoline, near Ostrog Monastery, to split the drive north over two days. The drive wasn't easy: around two hours on dark roads, and very narrow ones toward the end. We got our rooms and went straight to sleep. Ostrog itself we'll save for the next day.

Day 3: Ostrog Monastery, Skakavica waterfall, and a cabin in the middle of nowhere

We woke up at Sokoline and the view from the window settled the whole argument. Every minute of driving in the dark last night was worth this morning. Today we went from a monastery clinging to a cliff, to a waterfall fed by snowmelt, to an isolated wooden cabin with no proper heating at all.

Ostrog Monastery

We drove to Ostrog Monastery, one of the most important religious sites in Montenegro, carved into a vertical rock face. We climbed to the upper monastery; entry is free. The white building wedged into the cliff looks like someone forced it in there, and somehow it works. Worth the stop even if you're not religious at all.

Slano Lake viewpoint and Skakavica waterfall

On the way north we stopped at the Slano Lake viewpoint, an artificial lake dotted with little islands, a gorgeous panorama for a five-minute stop. From there we carried on to Skakavica waterfall. The trail is short but not easy with a toddler or with grandparents, and the water? Freezing. Straight off the snowmelt. The brave ones in the group took a dip. I took photos.

A night at Nadgora Skyhouse

Toward evening we reached Nadgora Skyhouse, a cluster of cabins in an isolated village, about fifteen minutes from Žabljak. We rented the big villa. This is not a hotel, to be clear: the whole structure is wood, you heat it with a real fireplace, and the vibe is rural all the way through. We cooked a warm family dinner around the fire, and it was exactly what we needed after a day in the mountains.

Two things worth knowing in advance. One, get there in daylight the first time. The isolation is real, and finding it in the dark is a nightmare. Two, stop at the supermarket in Žabljak and shop before you arrive, because in that villa kitchen you're cooking for yourselves.

Day 4: A trek to the edge of the Tara Canyon, Durmitor lakes, and one culinary letdown

A full day in Durmitor National Park. When you wake up in an isolated wooden cabin, the morning sets its own pace without asking you. Today we saw one of the deepest canyons in the world, visited lakes that look like they were lifted out of a fairy tale, and learned that not every recommended restaurant earns the recommendation.

The trek to Ćurevac viewpoint

Our host, Aleksandar, advised us to set out on foot straight from the villa door. About two kilometers to the parking lot, then another kilometer uphill to the Ćurevac viewpoint, which looks out over the Tara River canyon. Entry to the reserve is five euros. The view is breathtaking, but the trail is nowhere near stroller-friendly. Grandpa, grandma, and the little one did it heroically. Me, a little less so.

The Durmitor lakes

In the afternoon we drove south to Vražje Lake, the "devil's lake," famous for its turquoise color, and to Riblje Lake next to it. The area is open and lovely for a walk, but the wind was cold enough to cut our visit short. We looked, we photographed, we got back in the car.

ORO restaurant in Žabljak

We followed the recommendations to ORO in Žabljak, and it was a disappointment. The food felt underdone, and the whole place smelled like a tourist trap. We went back to the villa, lit the fire, and the family evening made up for the mediocre meal. That's how it goes sometimes.

Day 5: From the mountains back to the sea, an Independence Day surprise, a cave and some wine

This whole day was about transitions. We said goodbye to the wild north and the cabin and started driving south, back toward the sea. The original plan was shopping in Podgorica, but Montenegro decided otherwise, and we ended up with one of the most fun days of the trip precisely because nothing was planned.

We took a detour onto the narrow, famous P14 road, which had only just reopened after the snow melted. We stopped at a viewpoint along the way, the kind you don't plan but are glad you caught. From there we continued to the BIG FASHION mall in Podgorica and arrived to locked doors. Montenegro's Independence Day. We had no idea.

So we changed direction. We drove to Lipa Cave, went in on an open train to the entrance, and walked among the stalactites. It's cold in there, around ten degrees, so plan for it. The price was about seventeen dollars. To warm up we hopped over to the nearby Lipovac winery for a tasting in a relaxed setting, and that closed out the afternoon perfectly.

In the evening we reached Budva, wandered the old town's alleys and ate there. Then we drove to our place in Dobrota, a huge Airbnb compound with six bedrooms, three bathrooms, and an outdoor kitchen right on the waterline. After a few nights in the mountains, going back to sleep by the sea is a serious upgrade.

One tip from this day: before an urban day, check the calendar of national holidays. A single holiday can shut down an entire city on you.

Day 6: A stone morning in Kotor, Sveti Stefan, and the Budva promenade

We gave the sixth day to the sea. We started with breakfast at Resto Bar inside Kotor's old town. The car-free maze there is perfect for a toddler; she ran between the alleys while we took a breath.

From there we drove to the famous island of Sveti Stefan, and I have a small scoop: after a long stretch when it was closed, you can once again get close to the island and cross the bridge. We enjoyed the beach, the clear water, and even took a dip. Worth checking the status before you go, because it changes.

After the beach we drove to the Budva promenade and walked all the way to the ballerina statue perched on a rock facing the walls. A relaxed evening, a pleasant stroll, and back to Dobrota.

Two small things: parking near Sveti Stefan can be pricey, so factor that in. And Kotor's old town is flat and perfect for a stroll with a pram, if you're traveling with little ones.

Day 7: A last morning in Kotor and the road home

The last morning of a trip always feels a little strange. Yuval and I wrestled with the suitcases, Grandpa Yoav took the toddler, and we headed out for a calm farewell loop around Kotor before the drive to the airport. Sunday morning, the city quiet, the light falling on the stone exactly the way it should.

From there we drove to return the cars in Tivat. Returning three rental cars with eight adults and a toddler is a recipe for a headache, but for us everything went smoothly, because we'd arranged full insurance with a zero deductible in advance. We handed over the keys, nobody inspected us for every scratch, and we flew home with a clear head.

Two final tips. Don't skimp on car insurance. Montenegro's roads are narrow and winding, and full coverage is worth every cent for the peace of mind alone. And Tivat airport is small and compact, but the lines crawl, so bring patience and snacks for the kids.

After seven days: what we learned

Montenegro gave us everything in one small package. Sea and mountains, caves and wineries, ancient towns and wooden cabins in the middle of nowhere. A three-generation trip takes flexibility and no small number of compromises, but the experiences you collect together are well worth it.

If you're thinking of doing this with a big family, two closing thoughts. Don't overload the days, because the pace of a toddler and of grandparents is your real pace. And leave room for surprises, because the day that fell apart the most for us, with the closed mall, turned into one of the best. We came home closer than ever, with a ton of photos and an appetite for more.